Emails I’ve gotten from readers, my responses are in bold.  Personal information has been edited out.

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Hey, great site! Enjoyed reading the posts.

Quick question for you, how would I go about finding out the price of buying a tuk-tuk? I know it sounds kind of weird, but am planning to head to Laos for an extended stay (10 – 12 years) and am needing something cheap I can get to move both small groups of people (2 to 3) and things…

Any info is great and hope all is well.

I don’t think purchasing a tuk-tuk is a viable option.  The government is slowly phasing them out, at least in Vientiane, and I believe they require special permits (and corresponding “tax”) from the government.  They also seem to break down frequently and are too slow for the main roads.  What I would suggest instead is purchasing a used Chinese-made small pickup truck (about the size of a car) or van.  There are many such vehicles on the road and you should be able to pick one up cheaply (probably US $1-3,000).  This would provide a faster, safer, and more comfortable ride than a tuk-tuk.  An even cheaper option would be to get a sidecar made for a motorbike.

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I’m currently searching for information about living in Laos as I’m thinking about spending 12 months there starting sometime next year, and your blog has been one of the few sources of direct and real information that I’ve been able to find – so I’d just like to say thank you for working on it and let you know that there are people out there interested in what you’re writing and being helped by it. I hope you continue to write (and write in more detail) in the future as you seem to have a lot of insight to share.

One thing I was hoping you could post about sometime in the future is how conservative Lao society actually is when it comes to day-to-day life. I know there’s a law against men and women sleeping together before marriage – but are people as conservative in the rest of their lives (not just about gender roles and male-female relations but about everything else as well) as this might indicate? If so, in what ways? Also, for foreigners, is there a stigma attached to being our friends or dating us in general – or are we generally accepted and embraced by general society, not just in certain expat circles or by people looking to take advantage of us?

I’d really like to know more about these issues – either through your blog or, if you don’t want to post about them, through e-mail. Thank you for taking to read this and again for the information you’ve posted so far as there really is very little out there at the moment.

Cheers,

Hi,

Thank you for your feedback.  I’m extremely busy at the moment but I’ll try to get to your questions soon.  I have two questions to help me answer.  What would you be doing here?  You don’t have to get into anything personal or exact, but for example, some people who require a fast and extremely reliable internet connection for their work are shocked at the cost of such a connection.  Second, have you been to SE Asia before?  I can compare Laos to Thailand or to the west depending on your answer.

Regards,

Will

Thanks for taking the time to reply. First, I should tell you that I’m not exactly sure what I will be doing in Laos yet – as it’s just sort of a vague plan for the beginning of next year at this point. I’m currently working as an editor of sorts in Seoul, South Korea, though, and would ideally like to do some kind of general or business editing or NGO work while there. I’ve also considered teaching English as, overall, my main goal is just to broaden my resume while enjoying living in another part of Asia before entering an international affairs MA program.

In regard to your second question, I have been to Laos and other Southeast Asian countries in the past (about 4 years ago), but I was there as tourist so – although I liked the general feel of the country – I wouldn’t say that I have any idea what it’s like to actually live there. So any insights you could offer about that – whenever you get a chance – would be very helpful and much appreciated.

I could write dozens of pages on things you’ve touched on (and hopefully will in the future), but I’ll try to keep this short.  If you have any more specific questions I’ll try to answer them.

The Lao people generally love foreigners and they have little of the nationalism you see in Thailand or Vietnam.  Huge numbers have emigrated in the past 40 years and many people you meet have relatives in western countries.  They are curious and will often want to talk or drink beer with you without expecting anything in return.  They generally like caucasians and find them attractive but dislike africans.  I’m not sure how they view other asians.  The topic of race is complicated and often nonsensical.

You will have zero problems finding a girlfriend.  Unfortunately the only people who speak good English are hookers, rich girls, and of course foreigners.  No one will care if you’re dating a Lao girl but you face a hefty fine if she’s caught staying overnight at your place.  The family will probably like you as long as you show respect.

Thanks for that – I’m sure it took a while to write, but it was quite helpful and gave me a much better idea of what to expect. I was especially glad to hear about there not being as much nationalism, etc., and it sounds like it might be a good change of pace from Seoul socially (friendlier, more accepting people, etc.). One thing I’m wondering though is if there are classes or other opportunities for foreigners to learn Lao in Vientiane? I think you mentioned something about only inconsistent materials being available but thought there might be other resources out there… Also, if you’ve been studying the language, has it helped you a lot and are people eager to use it with you? I’ve learned a fair amount of Korean in my time in Seoul but have found it only marginally useful outside of class because most things can be accomplished through English here (both a blessing and a curse) and Koreans are just generally eager to use and practice English. In any case, thank you again for all your help – and I want to say that I like your last few posts, especially the FAQ post, and am looking forward to seeing how you revamp your site.

A couple universities offer Lao classes for foreigners.  They’re more expensive than you’d think, but cheap by western standards.  You could also get a private tutor.  It would be a little more expensive but you’d learn faster.  It’s possible to get by without speaking any Lao but you’re obviously missing out on a lot.  There’s an entire class of people here (mostly working for embassies and NGOs) who essentially pretend Lao people don’t exist and have their own inbred social network.  I’ll write about them eventually.

Generally people love it when you can speak some of the language.  Lots of foreigners come through the city who can speak Thai, but they hardly ever encounter a Lao speaker.  My biggest problem is that people assume I’m fluent and just start chattering away.

My biggest problem re: the language is that I essentially live in an English-language bubble.  I speak to my friends (even Lao ones) in English, read English books, watch TV in English, etc.  It’s just so damn easy to do.  I think I just need to get a serious girlfriend.

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came across your blog and thought it was hilarious (and accurate).

do you live in vientiane?  what is the best way to find a job in vientiane?  vientiane times (i’ve looked) and what else?

thanks for the blog…keep writing.

Thanks for the feedback.  Yes, I do live in Vientiane.  Teaching English is probably the best way to make some money.  As far as I know, for most (paid) NGO work, you pretty much need to be in the top .00001% of humanity with multiple PhDs from top universities and references from nobel laureates and heads of state.  The main problem with finding work is that for most jobs you can find a Lao person who would be thrilled to make $5/day.  If you’re interested in teaching, make a resume, drop it off at a number of schools, and wait for them to call.  You can probably find a list of them online.  If you have a college degree you have a better chance of being hired and other jobs would possibly be open to you.  Like the rest of the world, most good jobs are found out through word of mouth, so maybe try hanging out at bars and asking around.  Teaching here is usually very unstable so your goal should be to get a job at one of the international schools (I think there are two) or eventually finding work in another field.

You could probably also buy valium at the pharmacy and sell it to tourists for a big markup.  This is probably a legal gray area because you don’t need a prescription.  I’m not really serious about this but it would probably work if you were willing to put the time in.

Good luck,

Will

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Hi Will I have just recently seen your web pages and am hoping that perhaps you can help me with some information on living and working in Laos.

I am a freelance Graphic Designer living in England and am looking into the possibility of relocating to Laos (perhaps Luang Prabang) with my Laos wife. Your web blog has prompted me to write to you in the hope that you could give me a point in the right direction.

If possible, could you help me in telling me what visa I would require to live and work in Laos? How long would the visa last and is renewing it guaranteed? There is so much conflicting information on this that I’m totally confused!

Is it possible to start your own business/work from home and if so what would be the best way for me to start?

I have a wealth of Graphic Design experience (20 years) working firstly for an advertising agency, my own business partnership and for the last 10 years working as a freelance from home. Would this be of any use in Laos?

My wife is originally from near Pakse and her family live there with a brother living and working in Vientiane. Would this help in my application for a visa?

I’m sorry there are so many questions, but getting the required information is very difficult over here as we have no Laos Embassy in England, the nearest being Paris. If there are any websites you could recommend me I would be very grateful. Many thanks in anticipation.

Quick questions: Is your wife a Lao citizen?  Have you been to Laos before and if so, how much time have you spent here?

Yes my wife is a Lao citizen and no I’ve not been to Laos yet.

I’d advise taking a long vacation (or working vacation) here before considering a move.  There are a few reasons for this.  This first is that you might not like it here.  That’s perfectly ok.  Often places that sound great on paper or in travel books just aren’t compatible with you.  I don’t especially like New York and know plenty of people who feel the same way, but I also have friends there who wouldn’t consider living anywhere else.  You just don’t know until you visit.

Secondly, while Laos is an extremely nice place to live, it is not utopia. When you first come here, it’s easy to feel like you’ve found a magical place where everything is cheap, the people are all happy-go-lucky, and everywhere you go there are monks with shaved heads and orange robes. It takes a while to realize that this is like any other place: some aspects are fantastic, some are a pain in the ass, and the rest are in between. Living here will never be as good as the impression you get during your first week or two, if that makes sense.

Lastly, spending a while in Laos would allow you to visit different parts of the country to see which one suits you. If you want to be around other westerners, your options are really only Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, and Vientiane. If you just want to keep to yourself, there are plenty of other options.

You mentioned interest in Luang Prabang. I’ve only been there once, but here are a few things to keep in mind: It’s quite small, I think the permanant pepulation is something like 25,000 people. The main industry is tourism. This means there are tourists everywhere you go. I’ve spent the majority of my life in places flooded with tourists for at least part of the year and everyone hates them, including other tourists. If this doesn’t bother you, you’re a better man that I. Everyone will also assume that you’re a tourist and it will be difficult to get a decent price on anything. I also believe there is a midnight curfew.

I’ll write later concerning business and the other things you brought up. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Will

Hi Will

Thank you very much for your very comprehensive email. It is much appreciated. I also want to thank you for your honest advice.

I agree with you totally on point one. I’ve been to many places which I’ve liked very much and other places I’ve no intentions of visiting again (eg. San Fransisco and LA!) . I realize that going somewhere on vacation is totally different to living there full time.

Over the last few years I have spent many months vacations in Thailand and always hate the countdown to the end of the vacation and return flight home. As soon as I was getting home I was booking my next flight back. I am not sure why, but I feel totally drawn to the SE Asian way of life (if there is such a thing).

What has sparked my interest in Laos is my Laos wife and the current economic climate in the UK. I think perhaps that I am looking to get off the ‘technology roundabout’ and perhaps try something a little different and more simple. Things are so tough in the UK at the moment and there is very little hope of a quick end to the recession. There also the constant pressure of always being ultra competitive in the marketplace, which is wearing at the best of times.

I think we have been drawn to Luang Prabang by the comments of some friends who have recently visited Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia (yes, tourists!). Everyone has said that it was the highlight of their trip. My wife’s friend who now lives near us in the UK is originally from Vang Vieng and has also given favourable accounts of Luang Prabang. Yes I’ve also heard about the curfew!

If you have any information regarding starting a business or working in general it would be much appreciated. Also what would your advice be on property. Is it easy to rent, buy or build for instance. Also any advice on medical care. I’ve heard it not too hot in Laos! Once again Will, many many thanks for your emails.

Best wishes

Visa—I think you can automatically get a visa if your wife is a Lao citizen. I’m not positive about this but you can check on the SE Asia forum at thaivisa.com. A lot of people on there are idiots but there’s a guy with a name of something like “technocracy” who has a Lao wife and has lived here for quite a long time. If that fails you can easily get a 6- or 12-month business visa from certain people by paying a bit of a premium over the regular price. You should be able to find these guys.

Business–If you’re doing internet/freelance work I would keep quiet about it and have the money go to your UK bank account. Even though you’re technically not supposed to work, there’s about a 0% chance of anyone finding out or caring if they do. Just tell people you’re taking a break from life in the UK, living off savings, retiring early, looking into opening a restaurant, whatever.

If you want to open a brick and mortar business, there’s an easy way and a hard way. Before I get to these, I want to point out that even if you have a very successful business and make enough to live well in Laos, your actual profit in dollars or pounds will probably be small compared to the west. This doesn’t matter if you stay in Laos, but if you move back home you won’t have much to show for your time here.

The easy way: put the business in your wife’s name. It’s common for foreigners to open a business in their Lao spouse’s or friend’s or business partner’s name. There’s much less bureaucracy to deal with and officials would rather work with a fellow citizen. The problem is that the whole arrangement is essentially based on a handshake– you don’t own the business even though you put up all the money. You even have to get a work permit to work at your own place. I have a friend whose now ex-wife has a shiny new restaurant courtesy of him. If something happens to your wife, the business is now owned by her family not you. This sort of arrangement is fine if you want to want to open a little bar or a noodle shop, but I would be careful if there’s serious money involved.

The hard way: If you want to really be in control of your company, the short answer is see a lawyer. There are a million hoops you have to jump through, bribes to be paid, minimum investments, and all kinds of other crap. On top of all this, it can take a year or more before your business is approved. I may or may not be looking into this later on in the year.

Banking–I imagine your savings are in pounds and you’re probably aware that the GBP has gotten killed in the past 6 months. For this reason I’d suggest exchanging only what you need until the pound recovers a bit. If you have a saving account in kip, you can get insane interest rates of up to 14%. However, as economists say, “there ain’t no such thing as a free lunch.” I’ve met several people who have put their life savings into Lao banks. This is stupid because: The Lao-Vietnam Bank (or whatever) could just disappear one day and you’d be screwed. You could face restrictions of only being able to withdraw, say, $100/day and this could be a 5-hour process. The kip could lose 90% of its value again like it did during the 90s. Putting some money into these accounts would be fine, but you have to realize there’s risk involved and you’re not getting something for nothing.